Hampden, Part Five, Baltimore Maryland

We’re back to walking down Hampden’s “Avenue,” otherwise known as 36th Street, and coming to its end. That is, while the road itself continues on for another quarter mile or so, the 1100 block is the last with any notable restaurants. My favorite Hampden shop, Caravanserai, is on this block, too. Purveyors of goods from around the world, Caravanserai is one-stop shopping for colorful and comfortable home goods, clothing, and jewelry. As I’m writing this, the owner is on her way back from a trip to Afghanistan where she purchased some gorgeous baubles for the shop; I’m champing at the bit to have a look.



On to food. At the corner of 36th and Hickory Avenue is a take-out called Philly’s Best. They serve pizza, subs, pasta, and also Indian food; why they don’t have a chicken tikka sub on the menu is beyond me. In any case, this particular storefront is probably more famous as the “Sub Pit,” the place of employment for Edward Furlong’s titular character in John Waters’ movie, Pecker. Next door is Souvlaki Greek Cuisine. You’ll never guess what their specialty is…. Determine if you want your souvlaki as a sandwich or part of a platter, and customize it with your choice of meat (or veggie) and sauce. Salads and mezedes (hummus, spinach pie, etc.) are also available.

sweet breads Baltimore MD

The family-friendly Golden West Cafe comes next, an eclectic joint if there ever was one. I remember when it first opened in one of the porched townhouses down the street a few blocks. The space was small and the menu short, but they had a really tasty warm Vietnamese salad topped with shrimp. They’ve moved into a much bigger space, but still serve that salad, one of a small handful of Asian-inspired dishes. The rest of the menu is comprised of a fair number of Southwest/Tex-Mex-style foods like burritos, quesadillas, Frito pie, and layered enchiladas made with sopapillas, but also teriyaki brussels sprouts, a Pittsburgh steak salad, a BLT served on focaccia, and breakfast all day. Additionally, vegans will find plenty to eat at Golden West. With all of the options (including a popular bar) the place can get pretty crowded, especially at brunch-time. If that’s the case, never fear! There’s always the take-out window, which slings a limited menu starting at 7AM every day. And it’s not like there aren’t a couple dozen other places to eat nearby…

…Like Arthouse. As the name suggests, 1115 W. 36th Street houses an art gallery–one that is also a bar and pizza joint. The pizzas have thin crusts, are cooked in a brick oven, and come with fanciful toppings like blueberry/chile compote and brie or BBQ pork belly and apples. A while back I had one with garlic butter and escargot (in my book a seriously under-utilized protein). There are a smattering of soups, salads, and small plates, too. The Walters it ain’t, but hey, you can’t get pizza at The Walters. Next door to Arthouse is 13.5% Wine + Food. If you’re wondering about the curious name, it actually makes sense when you consider that the average percentage of ABV (alcohol by volume) of wine is 13.5. The wine bar itself is not at all average. They have a nice selection of wines by the glass and bottle; various liquors, amaros, and cocktails, too. Wines and liquors are also available in flights, for those of us who can’t make up our minds/like a little variety while we’re imbibing. Cheese and charcuterie are perfect partners for alcoholic beverages and make a great light meal, but why stop there? Other items on the eclectic menu include things like grilled octopus, Korean cauliflower, paella, a burger, and chicken pot pie pizza. (I told you it was eclectic.) 13.5% has live music on Fridays and Sundays, and various other events throughout the year.

Speaking of booze, there are two more places that I want to mention in this particular part of the tour. While they’re not on 36th Street, they are right around the corner on Hickory Avenue. The first of them is De Kleine Duivel, which means “the little devil” in Dutch. Billed as the only Belgian beer hall in the US, De Kleine Duivel serves only beers brewed in Belgium–over 200 of them. And no food. But as I mentioned before, it’s not like there aren’t plenty of places to eat nearby. Upstairs, for example, at the Bluebird Cocktail Room, where their specialty drinks are indeed something special. Try the Handsome Devil, made with honey, gin, and amaro. Also activated charcoal, which renders it an almost opaque black. It’s smooth and easy to drink. But don’t stop there…sample at least one more. Not only are Bluebird’s cocktails dee-licious, their food is pretty darn good, too. There are snacky items, like a beautiful yellow lentil hummus, and lamb meatballs, but also larger plates like grilled lamb chops, a cheeseburger, or butternut squash ravioli. I enjoyed a generous plate of fried sweetbreads on my last visit and hope they find themselves back on the menu in the future.

That’s pretty much it for the Avenue right now, though a brand new specialty waffle restaurant called Waffie opened up in the 800 block a few weeks ago. Think dessert rather than breakfast though, as their waffles are the crisp-crusted yeast-raised liege style. Delicious plain, or topped with fruits, syrups, and powdered sugar, these are waffles that can be eaten out of hand while strolling around the neighborhood.

There are still more notable dining spots in Hampden, they’re just a bit farther apart. Will touch on them in upcoming weeks. Until then….

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Minxeats Baltimore food blogger and Co-author of the new book, Maryland’s Chesapeake: How the Bay and its Bounty Shaped a Cuisine, plus Food Lovers’ Guide to Baltimore, and Baltimore Chef’s Table.


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