Everyone around him talks and jokes occasionally as they work, but Nick Vaccaro rarely says a word. With single-minded determination, he is folding squares of cannoli dough around forms — by hand, just as his great-grandfather did. By day’s end, he and his employees will have formed about 40,000 cannoli shells, the culmination of a […]
Few dishes are as results-driven and obvious in the quality of execution at first bite than a proper fried chicken. Your average fried bird experience has three components: the white meat, which tends overcooked, dried and inedible at worst and juicy and slightly supple when properly executed and/or brined, and the dark meat, which is […]
On a recent evening at Sally’s Middle Name, chef and co-owner Sam Adkins is busy at work in his kitchen when a health inspector shows up. Soon after, this reporter arrives at the restaurant, which opened for business June 3. “I don’t know what I did in a previous life that would cause an inspector […]